From Engineer to Fruit Wine Maker, Russell now makes 24 Distinct Wines

By Harvey Finkel

Max Russell seems very much at home on a farm. One wouldn’t guess he’s a retired aerospace engineer and designer.

Growing up in a family line of blacksmiths in the farming community of Otisville, Michigan, not far from Flint, he had no experience handling a farm until 1979, when he bought this establishment, vintage 1920, near Ipswich, Massachusetts, a Cape Ann town of 13,000, famous for its clams. Russell Orchards is just two miles from the sea.

The 120-acre property contains 80 acres of productive land, the rest forest. In addition to its produce, it yields 10,000 bottles of fruit wines per year, all sold at the attractive farm store on site, which also sells fruits and vegetables, tasty homemade baked goods, and other items.

The shop is run by Max’s daughter-in-law, Miranda, a professional singer and actress. Max is not related to the Russells of Westport Rivers Vineyard.

Russell, who spends several months each year building houses with Habitat all over the world, has always enjoyed hard cider, so he taught himself to make some. It was then a natural step to make wine from his own fruit. Except for wild Maine blueberries, all the fruit is estate grown. The apples are Baldwins, pears Bosc. It was in 1988 he began to sell wine. It’s a very hands-on-process. Mouth-on too, for he finds he must taste ad infinitum to get it right. Some American oak chips are used for Pear Wine and Perry, French oak chips in the aging of Dry Blueberry Wine. Ciders and Perry run 7-8 percent alcohol, wines 11-12 percent. Many are off dry or semisweet, some bone dry, a few sweet. Twenty-four distinct wines are made. (How does Russell keep them straight?) I was able to taste 15 (see tasting notes).

Dry, Slightly Sweet, and Sweet ciders cost $5.95, Cider/Perry and Perry $6.50, Sparkling Cider (Champagne method) $15. Baldwin Apple and Pear wines cost $8; Apple-Blueberry, Blueberry, Cherry, Dandelion, Jostaberry (a black currant/gooseberry cross), Peach, Rhubarb, Strawberry and Strawberry-Rhubarb $10; Blackberry, Black Currant, Elderberry, Raspberry-Peach, and Red Currant $12; Dry Blueberry and Raspberry $15.

Tasting Notes

Dry Cider (Max’s pet): Dry, subtle, gentle. Long finish. All the ciders and wines have true fruit character. Very popular.

Sweet Cider: To me, cloys a bit. Popular.

Perry: Seems a little flabby.

Sparkling Cider: Bone dry. Good texture. On yeasts two years. Very nice.

Baldwin Apple: Fine apple bouquet and flavors. Refreshingly tart, with balancing fruit. Very good finish.

Apple-Blueberry: Tart and Fresh.

Black Currant: Good acid balance and berry fruit. Very long.

Red Currant: Nicely balanced, long.

Blueberry: Vinous (like a red grape wine) and balanced.

Pear: Delicate. Nose, taste, maybe even hint of the texture of pear.

Raspberry: True, intense, long.

Raspberry-Peach: Sweet, but not memorable.

Strawberry: Smells of fine jam. Irresistible.

Strawberry-Rhubarb: Strawberry out front. Rhubarb shows.

Dandelion: Made from the blossoms, raisins and sugar. Refreshing, with some complexity.